Useful Puppy and dog information

Dog and puppy etiquette.
The first nine months of the puppies life is the most exciting. The puppy is learning a new language called “human body language” and “commands”. It is here the owner needs to be consistent, calm, kind and show perseverance.

People get caught up in the “cutesy” and “loving” side to puppy owning and forget the everyday etiquette the puppy has to learn during this period.

It is important to explain to the puppy what is expected of him/her from the very beginning. It is no use blurting out 1000 word essays to a puppy to try to get it to “SIT”. It might as well be in Martian as far as the puppy is concerned!

I find that I treat my dog like a three year old child. Sorry to compare dogs to children, but I give the analogy to teaching a child to write the letter “b”, remember the old bat and the ball to create it. You do not want to bring error of any sort into the training. As soon as this happens you have created a “NEGATIVE” environment. Be fair of what you are expecting this little puppy to understand.
I explain to people sometimes the simplest things can make or break a good behaved dog.

For instance:
You have rushed home and are carrying the groceries into the house. You are in a hurry to get the ice cream inside before it melts. Rover hasn’t seen you all day and has been bored and is spinning around you. You are pleased to see Rover’s excitement and talk to him with enthusiasm and rev him up even further. You fumble for the keys to open the door, get the door open and then the 40kg midnight express comes through cleaning up everything in its course spraying the new ice cream all over the floor. You fly off the handle as the orient express that now looks on at you in disbelief and not understanding what you are cross about. Your whole body language has changed, the facial expressions are angry the adrenalin is pumping at 400% and now you have to spend the next hour cleaning and mopping up the mess before the visitors arrive. This all could have been adverted very simply if the puppy had learnt to “WAIT” till the doorway was clear.

It is an easy straight forward lesson, but one a lot of people don’t understand until it is too late.
It is also important to decide the expectations and the role the dog will have in the family for years to come. The pecking order needs to be established early especially where babies and young children are concerned.

Another sad story was of a family who bought a beautiful male Weimaraner puppy as a status symbol. (They wanted the designer dog look). The father got the puppy home and loved him to death. He used to let this 10 week puppy onto his lap and cuddle him unconditionally for hours in front of the TV. The puppy quickly grew and the father didn’t want a 35kg lump on his lap. The dog was pushed away and firmly told to “GET DOWN” onto the floor. The dog did not understand what had changed in his eyes and has now become boisterous and destructive. The family not understanding why the dog had suddenly become so “anti-social” couldn’t cope with the tension it caused in the house and sent the dog into the backyard into solitary confinement. The dog now is in an even worse dilemma and turned the backyard into Gallipoli.

This dog ended up living in 5 different homes and is now settled and happy. This had obviously scarred the dog mentally and had become insecure of where its role was in the family. Such a small mistake can be catastrophic for the dog.

It is really not hard to train a dog to be a beautiful family companion. Again it is being calm, consistent and use perseverance.

Etiquette:

“Conventional requirements as to social behaviour” – The Macquarie Dictionary
This means “what is socially accepted”
You have to decide very early what is expected of your puppy in the family for the LIFE of the dog.
This can vary from lifestyle, visitor behaviour, protection and family pecking and more. All these are important with the expectations you put onto the puppy and the dog responds to you.

You will need to train your dog specifically for your lifestyle. It would be totally different expectations for a guide dog to a dog that is left to its own devices in a wrecking yard. You can not afford the dog to stick its head out of a car window or one that is tied to a post outside a shop to attack a passer by. It is not acceptable to expect a dog to understand the difference when it is too late.
You also don’t want a dog jumping all over your visitors when they arrive or dirtying your clothes as you are heading out the door. They need to be shown the difference between right and wrong.

Dogs work on a pecking order. It is important to set this straight from DAY 1.
As with children the puppy needs boundaries and guidelines to understand its place in the family. DO NOT have the puppy on your lap or on the furniture or bed. This is the quickest way to ruin a good family pet! As I mentioned in the beginning it can change to a negative situation very quickly. The dog thinks it is at the head of the family by being the same height as its owner. This is why a small dog who is carried in public can become snappy!
I had a dog that started at the end of the bed and worked his way to the pillow over several months. He used to snarl at me when I came near HIS? pillow. It took another couple of months to readjust the dog temperament and pecking order. Lesson learned!

It is misconstrued the dogs behaviour when mounting a child or other dogs from behind. This is usually a domination over the child and not sexual. It needs to be stopped and the puppy told it is not acceptable. Have the child feed the dog and the dog will believe this to be its only food source and follow and protect the child in the future.

Be aware of your puppy’s body language and learn to work with the puppy to your advantage.

Guide to Puppy Training: Training Philosophy and Techniques

Philosophy:
Dogs respond to Food, Touch & Talk. This means as soon as you make eye contact you reward the dog with the food, but also a quick pat and “Good Dog”. This has to be instantaneous!
I find the lounge room or backyard to be one of the easiest places to train a dog. It is because the puppy is calm and confident in its own surroundings and No Distractions! Between commercial breaks you can call the dog. As soon as you make eye contact you must reward the dog with Food, touch and talk. For example: Fido! Treat, pat (toy) and Good dog! Easy!
Other types of methodology trainers encourage pet owners to use is one of lure-reward training. Lure-reward training uses motivators to get results. A motivator is anything the dog wants. Typically, food and toys are used. So, when teaching "down", for example, a treat is shown to the dog and the dog follows the treat to the ground. The treat is given once the dog is in the prone position. This can become random as the dog learns the command. Refer to the “Down” command.

Clocking On!
I like to give my dog the opportunity to know when I am about to do some work with him. This could be a simple as crossing the road. You may have been enjoying a peaceful walk along the road when you may need to cross over. Therefore you need a word which sparks to dog into a working condition. This could be the dogs name, “ready”, ‘working”, “watch me” or anything you may need to stimulate the dog. Be consistent with all commands so the dog understands what is required of him.

Getting Dressed:
When putting on the collar remember to be gentle to get the check chain over the ears. The dog may shy away every time he sees the collar. Remember when your mother pulled the windcheater over your head in a hurry…..and it hurts!

Techniques:
Your voice and hands are positive motivators to your dog. When training your puppy, the tone of your voice can change according to what you want to enforce or reinforce. For example, when you ask your puppy to "sit", it should be said like a statement, not a question. When you are praising, your voice should be enthusiastic, sincere, positive and HUMBLE. If your puppy makes an error, you must tell him that his behaviour is wrong. Your correction word should never be his name or a group of words surround his name. You can use "eh, eh" or "wrong". We rarely use "no" for mistakes since it is over-used and often the puppy has learned to ignore it. Instead, save "no" for something extremely important, like "let go of the cat." Do not reprimand your puppy by using emotions. When your dog is fully familiar with what you are asking, you can use a stronger tone of voice, but once again remember to save your loud voice for emergency situations only.

Your hands should always be used in a positive manner. Puppies are not born understanding how human hands work. You must teach your puppy that your hands are positive and rewarding. Do not, under any circumstance, use your hands to strike your puppy or adult dog. This can elicit a defensive/reflexive bite.

Consider the personality of your puppy when you're training him. Some pups become overly aroused when you physically pet them, while others appear to relax and gain confidence from your touch. Therefore you need to be aware of your pup's personality type and decide how you are going to use your hands while training. Over handling a dog can over arouse a stimulated puppy, where as a nervous puppy can be intimidated. Dogs do not like your hands over their eyes. Gundogs especially are bred for siting birds therefore get frustrated when they can’t see. A firm pat on the chest is usually appreciated.

When teaching the dog to sit or drop learn to crouch down next to the dog and gently persuade them into the position required. I often see people jerking and pulling the lead and screaming at a puppy in frustration because the puppy doesn’t understand what is required of them.
This brings the Negative style of training into being and will not gain the respect of the new member of the family.

Conditioned Reinforcer or Marker.
At first, you lured your puppy into the position you wanted him to go, and then gave him a treat when he got there. Now we begin to use what's called a conditioned reinforcer (or marker word). We usually use the word "yes" or "good." Think of it as a snapshot of the behaviour you want. Say you'd like your puppy to "sit". You give the cue ("sit"), the puppy sits, and as his rump hits the floor you say "yes" or "good." That word means the treat is on the way. Every time he hears that word, a treat is forthcoming. As you and your dog get more proficient, this conditioned reinforcer become quite handy, since your puppy doesn't have to be close to you for you to tell him he performed the behaviour you wanted.

You can also use a negative marker to mark the exact time the puppy did something wrong. For instance, if he's on a sit, and he gets up, you'd give your negative marker (“Argh”,"eh, eh", or "wrong") at the very instant his rump begins to move upward!

Sit:
In training the dog is asked to “Sit” to the left of the person. Again when teaching the dog this command learn to crouch beside the dog and in a calm confident voice gently persuade the dog into position. Don’t forget to praise the dog as soon as the rump hits the ground.

Heel:
This command is used to walk the dog with their nose to your left knee. As you step off with your left foot you say “Heel” and as soon as the dog’s rump leaves the ground you praise the dog. Remember the puppy is trying to learn body language and you need to be consistent with all aspects of the training. If you need to hurry the dog along or get it back into position you use the command “Heel” to get it back. Do not end up being like the radio going at work that nobody listens to! Wah! Wah! Wah!......Good Dog!

Wait:
As I stated earlier when crossing the road you will find this command very useful. This can also be used when you have arrived home with arms full of groceries and need to get through the door ONE at a time! or when you need to get the dog out of the car near a busy road. This puts the dog into a ready mode rather than a steady mode like the “sit”, “stay” or “drop” commands and keeps the dog on their toes. Release the dog as soon as the situation is clear or changed.

Drop or Down:
This can be one of the hardest commands to teach a dog. A lot of owners stand over the dog yelling at them to “Drop”. This is the wrong way to get the dog to have confidence in you. Again you must gain respect in the dog. Also be aware of the grass conditions. It could be wet, full of ants or the dog just may have an allergic reaction to grasses. This is a submissive command to a dog and can become a negative if not used properly
I found the best way to teach a puppy to drop is in the lounge room or back yard. This is where the puppy is comfortable, confident and again less likely to be distracted. Make the “Drop” command a happy and confident command. To begin have the dog in the “Sit” position. Crouch down next to the dog and GENTLY place your left hand on the dog’s hip. This is to prevent the dog from moving forward out of position. With a piece of reward in your right hand you waive this in front of the dog’s nose and take it toward the ground and the dog will instinctively follow. PRAISE!!!! Immediately the dog’s belly reaches the ground.

Release Word (clocking off!):
This is an extremely important word or phrase. It grants your puppy permission to do something. Your release word means, "you are done"; "you may get up"; "you may go through the door." Start to use your release word whenever you wish to give your pup permission to do something. By patterning this, you will teach your puppy to automatically look to you for permission. Most people use “FREE” "OK," preceded by the dog's name. Other words or short phrases, which you can use, might be "release"; "thank you"; "bingo" or "free." Don't use "good boy" or "good girl" since you only use the word "good" to reinforce what the puppy is doing. "Good" means, to the puppy, "you are right, keep doing it, I like it, and you will get a reward."

Always remember to “release” the dog. If you walk away from the dog and forget to release him the dog will wonder off on its own accord and all the hard work is gone!

Guide to Puppy Training: Destructive Digging
There is a saying among experienced dog owners that when you own a dog, you should plan on losing things of value to you because of their destructiveness. Puppies can be destructive because they explore the world by putting things in their mouths and chewing on them. They may chew things to relieve discomfort from teething. Recognizing that destructiveness in puppies is a normal part of growing up may help you to cope with it and to take steps to minimize it. As a dog owner you need to commit the time and energy to teaching your puppy which behaviours are appropriate and which ones are not.

Working with nipping and destructiveness problems means finding ways to get puppies to do the right behaviours and then reward them. It also means being able to minimize inappropriate behaviour while meeting the puppy's behavioural needs. By thinking about each of these things, you can come up with more effective and humane ways to change your puppy's behaviour.
Teaching acceptable behaviour.

For puppies that are teething or chewing things in play or to investigate them, trade them an acceptable chew object for the inappropriate object. Pigs ears are great for puppies where Hard rubber toys stuffed with tasty food treats, rawhide or other edible chew toys may be especially attractive for older dogs. Experiment with your dog to find things that are most attractive to her. Don't leave out many toys at one time but only put out two or three at a time and rotate them with other toys every few days. Toys that haven't been out for a while may be more attractive than toys that are out all the time. Don't give your puppy old shoes, socks, clothing or children's toys. These may be confused with the real things that you don't want destroyed. Consider giving ice cubes to teething puppies as the cold ice seems to soothe the discomfort. Anytime your puppy picks up an appropriate toy on her own, be sure to praise and reward her. You can't reward your puppy enough for doing the right thing.

Minimizing inappropriate behaviour.

Make it difficult for the puppy to get to inappropriate objects. "Puppy proof" areas where the puppy is kept or spends a lot of time. This means putting away food, trash, clothes, shoes and other things the puppy finds attractive. Have family members pick up clothes, books, papers and other things. Don't leave eyeglasses, TV remote controls or foods lying around in easy reach. Close doors and use gates to keep puppies under supervision and away from inappropriate things. Leash puppies to your belt or near you so you can supervise them and reward appropriate behaviour. If you must leave your puppy unsupervised for long periods of time, leave her in a puppy-proofed area such as a kitchen, laundry room or bathroom, or in a crate or kennel. Be sure to gradually get your puppy used to this area for several days before you leave her, and be sure to leave her with water, a place to nap, a place to eliminate if no one can take her out, and chew toys.


Using punishment correctly.

Never hit, slap, kick or shake your puppy for destroying things. This may create fear, aggression or make the problem worse. The worst punishment for a puppy is to hold their cheeks and look them in the eye, nose to nose. Dogs use this “eye to eye” contact themselves to show dominance to other dogs. You cannot punish your puppy after the fact for misbehaviour, even if you show her what she's chewed. She will not understand this, and will only come to fear and distrust you. If you don't catch her in the act, simply clean up the mess and try to avoid the problem next time. If you do catch her in the act, first try replacing the object with one of her toys. Refer back to the section on Discouraging Unwanted Behaviour in Training Procedures for other ideas. Consider using booby traps to punish “out of sight” destructiveness. Place double-sided tape or an upside down rug runner next to trash cans or stack empty soda cans on top of counters to startle the puppy or bury a mouse trap under a piece of paper in the garden.

Guide to Puppy Training: Play and Exercise

If your puppy is excessively biting and jumping, it does not necessarily mean that he is wild or out-of-control. The problem could be lack of adequate exercise or the puppy could be teething as stated earlier. When your puppy does not get enough physical and mental exercise he becomes frustrated, and when left to his own devices, will find his own "entertainment." If you do not provide a constructive outlet for your puppy's play drive and energy, you will have behaviour problems, including biting and destruction. This can be avoided by giving your puppy lots of constructive exercise and play.

Remember that your puppy is learning every waking minute. He learns a lot when you play with him. You want to teach and play games that encourage positive behaviours.

Exercise

Puppies need to run. Find a safe environment (fenced-in area, tennis court, etc.) and allow him to run free and play with you. Reward him every time he returns to you to check in. Don’t leave “Coming” to the last thing and making it a reprimand. Suddenly you realise you are running late for an appointment and bellow to the dog “COME! GET IN THE CAR!” The dog looks at this as a reprimand and the next time the dog won’t come! Also refer to the “Chase Game”. Do it in regular intervals so he gets conditioned to check in regularly. Don't rely on leash walking as his primary form of exercise. Even though this is good exercise for both of you, it is not enough for the puppy.

Using a long line to keep him safe and under your control, take your puppy for a hike, a swim, a walk on the beach, or a romp in the park. The more time you spend with your puppy doing fun, positive things, the deeper the bond between you will grow.

Mental stimulation is just as important for a puppy. Know and understand what you dog is bred for. This means for instance a Weimaraner is bred for hunting. This includes siting, scenting and retrieving game.
Therefore the mental exercise is just as important. Place toys in hiding spots around the garden and make them find them and retrieve. While walking down the park have the dog go in and out of bushes or jump over and under pine logs. You will find the dog will wear out quickly if mentally stimulated.

Games

Left to their own devices, puppies will teach you how to play. Instead, start to teach him games that you like and want to encourage.

Roughhousing teaches grabbing, biting, and causes your puppy to be very "mouthy." Any "game" that brings out these types of behaviours should be completely avoided, especially with children.

A Gundog’s mouth should be “Soft”. The dog is not allowed to damage the game. Therefore DO NOT push or pull objects from the dog’s mouth. This teaches the dog to be over zealous and destructive.

Make sure your pup knows which toys are his. If you want him to play only with his toys, then he must be able to distinguish them from everything else. If his toys number in the dozens, then he will never be able to do this. Many people protest that even though the dog has "tons of toys, all over the house" of his own, he still takes things that are not his. Often that is the very problem -- he has so many toys strewn around the house amongst the children's toys, sneakers, shoes and articles of clothing, he cannot possibly keep straight which are his and which are not. Anything he can grab is a toy to him.

Consider designating a special toy box for your puppy's toys. Take him to his toy box and teach him the meaning of "toy box." Say "toy box", and when he takes a toy from his box, praise him like crazy, and join him in play with the toy. He will learn that if he wants something to play with or chew on, he just has to go into his toy box and retrieve a toy. Periodically, hide yummy treats or stuffed Kongs in his toy box to increase its attraction.

Games which encourage positive behavior such as retrieve, catch, hide and seek, find it, FrisbeeTM and soccer are encouraged. Do not allow a puppy to jump up to get the FrisbeeTM or ball. While he is still growing, his bones are fragile and jumping should not be encouraged at this age. A wonderful toy that you might not have thought of is an empty hard plastic bottle (such as an empty laundry detergent or 2-liter soda bottle). Remove and discard the lid and also make sure it has been cleaned thoroughly! Puppies love to chase and knock such a bottle around because it slides or moves around easily and they cannot hold it in their mouths. They also don’t relate these to other household objects (ie shoes, clothing etc).

Do not play with puppies on vinyl or slippery floors. Although it seems cute when skidding around the kitchen it can damage their hips and joints for the future.

Guide to Puppy Training: Teaching "Hold & Give"

When a puppy is in possession of an item that he considers valuable, he might view the presence and/or approach of someone as threatening. To ensure it’s safe-keeping, he may challenge your approach and guard his treasured possession with a show of teeth, a snarl, and/or a menacing growl. This is unacceptable and should be told “NO”. It is unlikely that your puppy has exhibited any of these behaviours as of yet, but unless taught and conditioned differently, he may, as an adolescent or adult dog. Therefore, it is very important to teach your puppy to both share, and release objects from his mouth upon request.
You will find your dog will love to carry things. GENTLY place a toy in the dog’s mouth and say “Hold”. To release, take the toy and say “Gie”.

Sharing:
To teach your puppy to share, hold his bone or chew toy while he is chewing on the other end. Include all family members by simply passing the bone from one person to the next, allowing everyone to get involved. This exercise teaches the puppy that your presence and involvement is an asset, instead of a threat, since your hands and fingers can hold things so nicely for him while he chews. You can also smear a little peanut butter or other yummy substance on the bone while he is chewing on it and then return it to your puppy. Approach him while he is diving into his Kong, take it away and put something yummy into it. Another way to make your presence an asset is to take the Kong away while he is attempting to get the stuffed items out, pull something out for him and give it to him. He will think you are a wonderful assistant when he becomes frustrated and can't get that last morsel of treat from the centre. Don't be surprised if he begins to drop the Kong in your lap looking for help. Again, your presence brings about good things. This also helps when visiting the Vet and the teeth and gums need to be inspected.

As important as teaching your puppy to share, is teaching your puppy to relinquish objects is the mark of a well-behaved mannerly dog. You need to approach this in a positive manner versus a demanding or threatening one. This can be important if you suddenly realise the dog has got into the rubbish and is chewing on an old meat tray and could possibly choke on it.

Choose a word such as "give" to be the word that you use whenever you want your puppy to relinquish something. To teach him what this word means, approach him while he has a ball or toy in his mouth. Present a yummy treat at nose level (make sure that the treat you are offering is more appealing to your dog than his toy or ball). Your dog should release the object to take the treat. When he does so, immediately praise him, give the treat and return his toy. After a little practice, if you feel your dog is starting to drop the toy reliably, begin telling him to "give" as you offer the treat, so he will associate this word with the behaviour of releasing the toy.

Once your dog reliably responds to the cue of "give", ask him to do so without a visible treat. As soon as he complies, reward him with lots of verbal praise and an immediate treat from your pocket. Progress slowly to random food rewards along with your praise, and ultimately to verbal praise alone and the return of the toy. Even at this level of progress, an occasional "surprise" food reward will encourage continued success. This helps to maintain your dog's compliant attitude toward relinquishing something, in "hopes" of getting a special reward.

DO NOT introduce the game of "tug," or tease your dog with the toy. This can be disastrous for puppy teeth. Stop tugging and ask your dog to "give" the object. If he continues to tug, just remain calm and still and wait for him to give it up. Once he does, praise and reward him with a treat for his compliance. If he is really pent-up, show him the treat to help him release the toy.

Attempting to pull an item out of the mouth of your puppy when he is holding it is counterproductive. This will elicit an opposition reflex and his jaw will clamp the object with more force. The clamping force of a dogs jaw can break through bones. Your behaviour is then inviting a game of tug when you don't want that to happen. Don't confuse the pup. Train for a clean "give" behaviour on cue.

The “Chase Game”
Also, never turn this into a chase game. If he has something you need to get from him, do not run over to him or shout from a distance "give"! He will certainly feel threatened and run, thus causing a chase game, one he will love and remember for life. Instead, calmly approach him and ask him to "give" and replace it with a fun game of fetch, a bone or redirect him to something more attractive. To avoid repeating "give" fifty times a day, make sure you puppy proof your home so there are not objects laying all over the house for him to pick up. Crouch down and scratch the ground, an inquisitive puppy will run over to see if you have the main toy.

Feeding
It is important you chose the correct diet for your dog. A puppy will go through some quick growing spurts. As you could imagine the diet would be different between a Fox Terrier and a Great Dane. You should consult your breeder for information regarding your puppy’s diet.
Good quality food is important to the health of a new puppy. Whether the food is commercially processed or home grown it is important to have a balanced diet.
Commercial foods (PAL, Eukanuba, Supercoat etc) are readily available and good quality. Be aware the protein level you are feeding your dog. You don’t need to feed an old dog or one that lives in confined spaces “high energy” foods. But a working dog or as cold weather approaches the dog may need to bulk up slightly.
Pre-soaking dry foods is important with deep chested dogs like Wei’s, German Shepherd, and Labradors etc. Bloat can happen very quickly and be fatal for the dog. The dog should be fed approximately 1hour before or after exercise for this reason.

Toileting
As soon as the puppy has woken or eaten they generally need to toilet. Rather than relying on paper, it is best to coax the puppy outside to the area you have allowed for the puppy to defecate. Generally dogs will defecate the furthest point away from their bedding. Watch for body language like sniffing around or an uneasy attitude. In a short period of time the puppy will be telling you they need to go out.

Is there anything special I need to do to get ready for my new puppy?
In order to prepare your puppy for a well trained, well socialized adult life you must keep it safe from hazards just as you would a child. Before your puppy gets home there are several things you should check prior to letting your puppy loose in your home.
Small objects can choke a puppy. Once a day you should check your floor to make sure it is clear of items your vacuum cleaner might miss - such as rubber bands and paper clips.

Puppies love to chew. Electric wires can mean instant death to puppies. If you are not using it unplug it or put it up out of puppies reach. You can buy a pet repellent such as Bitter Apple or citrus to spray on the article/cord you do not want the puppy to chew on. Furnish chew toys or a hard rubber ball for the puppy to play with. Be sure the toys are made for dogs.

Garbage cans are another potential source of danger. Most puppies like to root through the contents. Make sure the lids are on tight. Old meat trays and plastic coverings taste great!!

Some puppies are capable of opening cabinet doors, especially those that are ajar. If you keep bleach, detergent or poisons in these cabinets either move them or put a childproof lock on the cabinet.

Keep toilet lids closed, or better yet, keep your bathroom door closed. Some puppies love to get a hold of toilet paper and either shred it or run down the hall with it. Some adult dogs can reach into the bowl and drink out of it. Don’t forget the water contains cleaning agents, bleaches, colouring…..

Check your yard, fence and gate and make sure that your puppy can not escape. Always be on the look out for loose dirt around the fence that might be an indication your puppy is trying to dig his way out. Be careful they can’t get their feet under the fence. My dog nearly lost his toe after he panicked and pulled back. He had to be stitched back together late on a Sunday night!

Remember, house training takes time. If you need to leave your puppy alone during the day or for any extended period you need to crate train your dog.

Before bringing your new puppy home, select a veterinarian and set up an appointment for a checkup. Your puppy will need to have regular checkups.
A few of your common household plants, shrubs and trees can be very toxic to your puppy. Make sure you place or remove these poisonous plants.
If you do any gardening, make sure you have all of your supplies locked up or out of reach. Snail baits are terminal! Don't forget many Wei’s are good "climbers" and can get to many things you wouldn't think about... like your kitchen table when you leave a chair pulled out.
As with any medications, please make sure you do not leave any bottles or pills where your puppy can get to them.
Your new puppy will bring you a lot of joy and happiness. One of the best ways of showing your love for your puppy is by making sure your home is safe. Remember that your puppy is still a baby and you need to protect it. Crate training is no different than putting your baby in a playpen.
How you expect your adult dog to behave begins when they are puppies!

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Some of the contents of this article were copied from www.PETsMART.com

Special thanks to Graeme Gilbert for providing this information.

Disclaimer:
The Labrador Retriever club of SA hold no responsibility for the actions or training of any person’s dog or animal. These notes are for information only.